- Words by Jane Mundy Photography by Don Denton
We know that a good cook can serve up memories from faraway places or offer a ticket back to childhood.
If you香蕉视频直播檙e craving currywurst like you once scarfed down in Berlin, a pretzel at Oktoberfest, schnitzel at a Michelin-star restaurant in Munich or spaetzle that your mother lovingly made, go directly to , where chef Maxime Durand will transport you to Deutschland and satisfy your cravings.
But don香蕉视频直播檛 just take my word for it. Patron Duane Bell had only just returned from Austria and Germany when I met him at Eva香蕉视频直播檚.
香蕉视频直播淕ermans and Austrians take their schnitzel seriously, so I was shocked at how good it was at an eatery in Victoria,香蕉视频直播� said Duane. 香蕉视频直播淭he currywurst was so good that it took me back to the street stall in Berlin, and all four of us ordered seconds香蕉视频直播攁s well as every appetizer on the menu.香蕉视频直播�
Like most Austrians, Duane takes schnitzel seriously. 香蕉视频直播淵ou can tell there香蕉视频直播檚 a lot of pride behind this food, and combined with great service we are thrilled to discover this eatery香蕉视频直播攎y German and Austrian tastebuds zing.香蕉视频直播�
Eva香蕉视频直播檚 menu is simple and spare, but the flavours are complex and the portions are big. For instance, Maxime adds 10 spices, perfectly balanced, to his currywurst, and ginormous schnitzels barely fit on the dinner plate. The breading is crisp and greaseless and the meat so tender. You香蕉视频直播檒l find classic choices such as schweineschnitzel (German pork schnitzell), roesti and raclette, but with modern twists. Fresh, local produce and the eggplant schnitzel香蕉视频直播攑repared sous vide with a side of rutabaga and sauerkraut香蕉视频直播攚ill bring a vegetarian back for more. I will return for a plate of braised red cabbage alone.
You won香蕉视频直播檛 know from the menu that almost everything, from schnitzels and spaetzle to pretzels and pickles, are haus-made at Eva香蕉视频直播檚 and there香蕉视频直播檚 even a smoker in the kitchen to smoke ham hocks and bacon, thanks to chef Maxime and his sous-chef Emile pulling double shifts.
One afternoon, I witnessed the pretzel prep. The dough is fermented overnight and chilled. Once about four dozen are shaped, they are dipped in an alkaline solution to caramelize the dough and proofed for half an hour before baking.
香蕉视频直播淲e try to serve them hot-out-of-the-oven just before dinner time,香蕉视频直播� Maxime explained.
And getting back to the currywurst, it香蕉视频直播檚 classic Berlin street food, served with dollops of curried ketchup and potato chips. North America香蕉视频直播檚 equivalent is the steamed, smothered hot dog at the hockey game or street stall香蕉视频直播攂ut it香蕉视频直播檚 way better. Just for starters, Maxime香蕉视频直播檚 ingredients don香蕉视频直播檛 include preservatives.
Naturally, there香蕉视频直播檚 a decent beer selection at Eva香蕉视频直播檚 with lager and pilsner on tap to wash down your wurst. And if you香蕉视频直播檙e not starved for a full meal but want a snack with that stein anytime after 4 pm, go for the big and chewy, soft and twisty pretzel with mustard butter. But be warned: it香蕉视频直播檚 addictive.
Breakfast is an important meal in Germany. There香蕉视频直播檚 a German saying: Iss dein Fr眉hst眉ck wie ein Kaiser (eat your breakfast like a king), which at Eva香蕉视频直播檚 refers to brunch; it will soon open for lunch as well.
Some items on the dinner menu are featured with a twist, such as schnitzel hollandaise and cured trout Benny with a mouth-watering sauerkraut pancake香蕉视频直播攈old the bread.
The space itself is like the menu: small and unpretentious with a low-key vibe, whimsical d茅cor with a nod to a ski chalet and just enough kitsch on the walls.
You香蕉视频直播檝e got to hand it to anyone opening a restaurant during the pandemic. Added to the fray, German food sometimes gets a bad rap, often perceived as heavy and stodgy: boiled sausages and potatoes and cabbage covered in cream and served by round men wearing lederhosen in beer halls. Austrian cuisine fares better perception-wise: considered more spa-like and sophisticated.
But when Victoria香蕉视频直播檚 Rathskeller Schnitzel House said auf wiedersehen after half a century, there wasn香蕉视频直播檛 much else in the city serving schnitzels and steins, and people crave comfort food in stressful times.
Chef Maxime, who previously helmed the kitchen at the award-winning Agrius, saw an opportunity. However, he says, it was nerve-wracking opening in November 2021 because nobody knew if the pandemic would get worse.
香蕉视频直播淎t the same time, people wanted to experience something new, although we aren香蕉视频直播檛 re-inventing the wheel. Sure, I have doubts sometimes when I wake up, but after a few beers they fade away, and questioning yourself is part of the learning experience,香蕉视频直播� he said, laughing. 香蕉视频直播淎s well, restaurant restrictions were lifting, so we had a bit of momentum right off the bat香蕉视频直播攊t was like a slow opening and now we are ready for a busy summer.香蕉视频直播�
Maxime chose not to deliver or offer take-out because 香蕉视频直播渟chnitzel doesn香蕉视频直播檛 travel well.香蕉视频直播� Comfort food is a source of hearty, warming pleasure year-round and that is something you香蕉视频直播檒l find at Eva Schnitzelhaus.
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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